The (second ) dashcam tale

This occurred because of an accident…

Installing my existing camera on a 2019 Subaru XV.

I used my existing dashcam, a Nextbase 512 and hardwiring kit

( essentially a piggyback fuseholder and low voltage limiter).
Remove the driver side dash end cover – small screwdriver / knife etc. Then pull off.


Remove the driver side dash fuse cover – pulls off.

Locate the required dashcam position, mine is behind and under the rear view mirror, as far up as possible. I am using a suction base for now, then an adhesive base when happy with the position.
Plug the connector into the camera.
Run the supply wire carefully behind the Eyesight equipment at the top of the screen, ensuring it is well clear of the cameras etc.
Push the supply wire behind the headlining on the drivers side where it touches the windscreen and down to the side trim on the driver side “A” pillar.
Tuck it behind the top of the side trim along to the door seal.
Pull the door seal away slightly and tuck the supply wire behind it all the way down to the end of the dashboard. The door seal can be pulled away completely on that part of the door, it goes back easily.

Locate a fuse to supply the camera – I used No. 7, a 15 amp one, it supplies the 12volt sockets. See 12 – 10 in the owners manual, it is the third from the left on the second row down. I used this one because I wanted my camera to turn on and off with the ignition.
Using the fuse removal tool from the engine bay fuse box I removed the fuse.
The Nextbase hardwiring kit uses a piggyback fuse – push the removed fuse into the spare location on the piggyback, there will already be a 2A fuse for the camera in place.

The existing Subaru fuses are very short and have plastic between the fuse blades, this has to be trimmed back to fit or a suitable replacement fuse obtained ( Halfords HFS 215 is a small pack of various fuses). A replacement longer fuse is best.
Plug the Peggy back fuse arrangement into the fuse box and ensure the fuse holder is located correctly and nothing catches.
Plug the other end of the piggyback connector wire onto he camera lead – I secured mine with a bit of tape as well.
On the end of the dash, above the bonnet lever is a cross point screw holding the dash trim to the metalwork – remove this and add the earth connector and wire from the hard wiring kit. You may need to cut off the existing connector and crimp a slightly bigger one on. Ensure a good connection to the metalwork of the car to complete the circuit.
Turn on the dashcam and then the ignition, the dashcam should operate.
Turn off the ignition only, the dashcam should go off after a short delay.
Coil all the excess wire and tape it up into a tight neat bundle and push it up at the side of the fuse box. Secure in place.

Replace the plastic dashboard end cap.
Replace the fuse remover and cover in the engine compartment.
Set the dashcam to point in the required direction and go testing!
You may need to use a ferrite core if interference is found.. mine has been OK so far.

The Bathroom Mods

We have a bungalow with two bathrooms, the original one and a newer one upstairs.

We decided to remodel the original one (again) but change the whole layout to make life easier.

This bathroom was a fairly small one, about nine feet by seven feet, with a bath, shower, washbasin, wall mounted radiator and various odds and ends. Next to this was a six feet by three feet toilet room. Each of these rooms had an access door from a short corridor which was accessed from a longer corridor running the length of the house downstairs, so lots of wasted space.

The plan was to completely strip both rooms, remove both doors and add a door from the long corridor instead.

What was the toilet would be a walk in shower, with the toilet,  bath, washbasin and radiator in the other room. The walls would be completely tiled, as would be the shower, while the rest of the floor would be oak planks.

The shower tray was to be formed from Wedi board and a proprietary drain in situ under the tiles. Above the shower was a combined light and extraction fan outlet, with the extractor fan in an overhead box above the window in the larger room.

Lighting was by a set of four LED lights in the extractor fan box and a main LED light in the centre of the larger room. A wall mounted spotlight was located in what was the short corridor.


After removing the plaster on the walls, the old doors and frames and the old wooden flooring, along with some of the supporting joists, the whole area was measured accurately and an assessment done of what would be required for the project.

All the walls were of brick construction but between the toilet and the bathroom was a boarded up window (?) so this was removed and replaced with bricks.

The ground level under the floor was damp clay about two and a half to three feet below.

We decided on the bath, toilet and washbasin we needed and these were ordered and dimensions obtained.

We had had a water meter fitted previously next to the original toilet, but this would prevent the shower being fitted, so was relocated on the opposite side of the wall between the two rooms.

We found that above the door into the main bathroom the existing wooden lintel was only about 6 mm onto the supporting brickwork so a vertical support was bolted into place to support the end. Previously this did not matter too much as above it was only empty roof space, but now we had the new bathroom there the loads were greater.

The floor was originally to be tiles but when we looked at the overall cost of waterproof plywood, adhesive, grout and tiles plus the amount of work required we decided that oak planking would be slightly cheaper and easier to fix. On their advice we decided on flamed oak planks as these would be stronger and more waterproof than ordinary oak planks. The wood is burnt slightly on the surfaces to make water absorption harder, this makes it slightly darker but as we were using light tiles on the walls it would not be too dark. The required quantity along with oil to treat the finished floor and specialised fixing nails was ordered to be delivered and kept on site to acclimatise.

The Wedi board we used for the shower tray was a thick closed cell foam sheet with a harder cement board top surface. We ordered a pre formed shower tray with extra flat board to make up the required area in the room.

The preformed tray was cut to size and the drain outlet position measured. The supporting joists were then cut to size, levelled, positioned underneath and secured in place.

The shower drain used required a support structure so a wooden box was fabricated between two joists and the drain positioned and secured in position. Between the box and the drain was filled with cement to provide more support.

The rest of the joists under the oak floor were then cut to size, levelled and secured in place.

Vertical battens were secured up one side of the shower area to hide the shower piping.

Other wall battens were used as needed throughout the bathroom to hold plasterboard and level the old walls.

The piping to the shower was 15mm copper from floor level with plastic piping used elsewhere. The copper pipes had shower connector elbows secured to one end then secured to the wall using a template to provide support for the shower controls. Once these were in position the pipes were covered with Hardie Backer board – a mesh reinforced cement based waterproof board, this was used instead of plasterboard to prevent any water damage in future. The boards were secured with large galvanised washers and rustproof screws.

The Wedi board was then glued in position on the joists and specialised Wedi joining tape was used all round to prevent leaks.

Before the oak flooring was laid temporary flooring was used and the position of the toilet outlet pipe marked. A hole was cut through the wall and the new outlet pipe to be positioned and joined into the main outlet pipe. Fortunately there was a “Y” connector in the outlet pipe for the original toilet, so it was a simple job to swivel this round 180 degrees for the new toilet.

At this stage the walls were plasterboarded then tiled, using waterproof tile adhesive. A batten was run round the main bathroom walls a few inches above floor level to start the tiles and maintain levels. A trunking was located on the end wall above the bath for an electric shower and piping and electrical wire were run ready.

The positions of the new bath and washbasin were marked along with the measurements for their new pipe positions. The water feed and drain pipes were placed in position. The water pipes were connected into the original supply pipes while the drain pipes were run out through the wall through the original hole in the wall. Glued waste pipe was used to prevent leaks. The plastic water supply used was high quality and care was taken to prevent tension on any of the joints. Suitable supports were used to prevent sagging and leaks on horizontal runs.

In the new shower battens were used to lower the ceiling slightly and hold the shower light / vent pipe. A hole was made above this into the main bathroom and the vent pipe and electrical feed wire run throu. The battens were clad with plasterboard, a hole made for the light fitting then plaster skimmed to give a smooth finish. The light was connected to the wire and pipe then secured into the ceiling.

In the main bathroom a framework was constructed  on the outside wall above the window. This housed the extractor fan, whichever was ducted outside, with four LED down lighters in the base. The base was plasterboarded, the holes cut for the lights and then plaster skimmed. The lights were fitted and wired to a new switch outside the bathroom ( UK regulations). The fan was wired to a separate switch.

The old main bathroom light was replaced with a new four bulb LED switch, the new corridor spotlight was fitted and wired into the shower light circuit, but had it’s own local switch as well.


A door frame and door were secured to the end of the old short corridor where it met the main corridor.

After the tile adhesive  had set thoroughly the oak floor was laid in position and secretly nailed.

While fixing fixing the floor holes were cut for the water feed and drain pipes and these fed through at the appropriate time.

When this was finished the tile battens were removed and short pieces of tile glued in place. where the front of the Wedi board shower tray was a piece of oak to match the floor was glued in place.

The shower bar was secured into position at this stage.

The toilet was placed in position with a connector to the outlet pipe and the holes for the concealed brackets marked. The toilet was removed,the brackets screwed in place and the toilet refitted and secured. A flexible pipe was connected between the water supply and toilet, this had an integral shut off valve.

The washbasin and pedestal was placed in position and the taps, drain, water feed and outlet pipes connected. A high grade silicone was used to secure the washbasin to the wall and allow easy removal.

A support frame for the bath was built in position with a top part matching the floor, the bath was lifted into position and secured with the same high grade silicone as the washbasin. The pipes and drain were connected.

The  electric shower was connected to the water pipe and wiring then fastened to the wall.

All the water supplies were then tested for leaks, and the lights, fan and shower for functioning.

The bath frame had an end panel fixed and tiled. A removable side panel was made, secured into position and then tiled.

A front cover was made for the extraction fan housing and on the base of the housing an oak batten was used as a mounting for the window blind.

After All was complete the temporary floor covers were removed, the bathroom cleaned and several coats of protective Polyx oil applied to the floor, with a large amount of buffing between coats.



Drill to lathe

I have a Sealy 16 speed, 16 mm  chuck drill mounted on a low stand at one side of my garage.

I had a need to turn some spindles and not having a lathe I decided to look into using the drill as a lathe.

The drill had the chuck mounted on the drill using a number 2 Morse taper so I figured out that I could use a modified flat wood bit initially as the drive for the spindles. I could also use the chuck to hold a small faceplate if needed.

The other, non drive end of the spindle had to have a pointed support, so I used a piece of oak with a centre punch pressed into it. the oak was slotted to provide adjustment and then mounted on the drill base using “tee” nuts into slots in the base.

The drill was mounted on a large wooden ” hinge”, half of which was bolted to the drill base, the other half was drilled centrally and bolted to the low drill stand. The centre pivot allowed me to rotate the whole drill and the hinge function allowed me to lower it down to a horizontal position. A stand was made to support the top end of the drill while in the horizontal position.




The non Drive end was lined up by ensuring that the drill was vertical in both planes and then gripping a short plumb bob and line in the chuck. This was allowed to settle then the non drive end point was lined up to this and secured.



This is the sum total of development so far, I need to make a tool rest, this will be mounted on the adjustable drill table when time permits.


watch this space!


A quick pair of lamps

I found myself sorting some oak bits the other day and thought some of them were too good to just throw away so decided to make a pair of table lamps.

After considering a few different configurations my other half said ” just pile them up and see what they look like”. This looked interesting but I felt that they looked too square and regular, so I decided to round off the edges and corners. This looked much better immediately, so I duly sanded the lot of them.

I found some flat bases to mount them on and rounded these as well.

When all the sanding was finished I glued them to the bases in a random configuration but also to make a handed pair of lamps.

When the glue was set, I marked the top blocks for brass bulb holders and drilled a 10mm hole right through the blocks and bases.

Grooves were cut in the bases to accommodate the wires then the blocks were finish sanded, stained and polished.

After everything was dry I screwed the lampholders to the top blocks and threaded the wires from the underside and secured them to the lampholders.

The wires were fastened into the base grooves, the shades and bulbs fitted and then checked electrically.

For the wires I used two existing wires with built in switches and plugs.

NOT good news:

One of the brass lampshade rings on the lampholders has gone missing, I have several plastic fittings spare but surprise! these are slightly bigger than the brass ones and do not go on the brass fittings – the search begins…

House Access Metalwork

The Reason

Some years ago an old friend’s wife had a severe stroke which left her paralysed on one side and confined to a wheelchair.

These friends lived on a sloping road, and to make things worse the house could only be accessed from the road by a set of steps that included a ninety degree turn and then a long (80 feet approximately) slope with steps at intervals, up to the back door of the house. The front door was up another set of steps off the side of the slope. The gardens were either alongside the slope or up yet more steps at the rear of the house. Both of my friends were devoted to the house so staying put was their preferred option.


After an initial period of confinement, my friends wife said she would like access to the rear garden if possible, so my friend and I started discussing ways and means of realising this. We discussed several ways of achieving the desired result including ways of accessing the road and gardens.

We even discussed the possibility of a water powered lift as used to negotiate steep cliffs at several seaside locations. I even made a short mock up to prove the method, although sheer logistics prevented this method the cost would not have proved prohibitive.

The Solution

The adopted solution was to make a chequer plate ramp from the back door, around the house side and up onto a patio at the rear. The back door had steps down to an existing path and the slope, but the path round the house was not level, narrow, and steep in places, with a set of steps up to the patio. It was decided to make the ramp from the back door level and to gently slope it up to the steps, with a steeper but quite short ramp up the steps and to even out as much of the slope as possible. A lift up section and short ramp was incorporated next to the back door to allow access down onto the slope to the road. A gate, railings, and short set of steps were incorporated into the ramp at the rear of the house to give access to other parts of the garden. Railings and a gate were added to the long slope parts. Other lift up sections were added near the back door/top of the lng slope area to be used if required. The lift up parts used trailer Antiluce fittings to hold them in the raised positions.


An electric scissor lift was made and sunk into the ground next to the front door, to allow access to a small patio overlooking the valley.

To complete the access the slope was modified by removing the few in-built steps and a wheelchair lift placed next to the steps onto the road. A gate was made to prevent unauthorised access to the wheelchair lift area.

Incorporated into all this was a winch to prevent the wheelchair from running away down the long slope.

The ramps were steel chequer plates about three feet by three feet, each one had recessed lifting handles and retaining catches. The chequer plates were supported on two inch steel angles and short steel legs as needed.


The whole construction took several months to complete, working evenings and weekends and was finished in green paint with non slip plastic “beads” incorporated on all walking surfaces. The gates were finished in nylon reinforced black gate paint.


Car Trailer / Top Box

This post is about a trailer design that I worked out years ago when I had a young family. We regularly filled the car when we went abroad and one of my ideas was to make a lightweight, small trailer that could be towed as needed and then converted to a roof box for short ferry trips, storage etc.


The trailer as originally designed was approximately one Metre long by one and a half Metres wide by half a Metre high, but could be made to virtually any size, the principle remains the same.

The trailer was to be very lightweight, to keep under the car roof rack carrying capacity, with removeable sides and ends, retractable tow bar and small diameter lightweight removeable wheels. The suspension units were originally Indespension ones, these were designed to be removeable, complete with the wheels. The hitch was to be a lightweight pressed steel one. The lights were a small removable trailer board.


The frame could be aluminium angle 50mm x 50mm x 3mm thick or galvanised 3mm steel, with a “top hat” section running centrally front to back, to provide support for the floor and also provide a square tube for the hitch tube to run in. The hitch is mounted on an aluminium 50mm x 50mm tube, this is located in the “top hat” section and could be either fully extended for road travel or fully retracted for storage or car rooftop use. Cross retaining pins and hairpin locking pins hold the two together. Two pins were to be used for safety, although one would probably be sufficient.

A wide piece of flat steel or aluminium runs across the trailer 150mm nearer the front than the centre line to hold the suspension units and locate the wheels on the trailer centre line.

The sides and ends are made from the same aluminium or steel section as the base and have small extensions that slot into retainers on the outsides of the floor frame in a similar manner to that used on lorries. At the tops of the frames are “antiluce” fasteners or similar, as used on trailers with a drop down tailboard, to hold the sides and ends securely together.

The floor and sides would be 4 – 6mm exterior plywood, well varnished and secured to the frames with aluminium rivets or nuts and bolts.

Either a fitted plastic flexible cover or a hinged solid top could be used as a top cover if required.

The suspension units are a square box section Indespension unit with either the same type of locking pin arrangement as the hitch unit, or nuts and bolts. These units also have integral plastic mudguards.

The trailer board would be mounted on the rear end with quickly detachable pins and clips, the wire would run round one side of the trailer to the hitch area and was also held in quickly detachable pins and clips to make removal and replacement easier.

Underneath the trailer are four “U” section retainers the same as those on rooftop boxes. These would be secured to a standard roof rack or rails when the trailer is lifted onto the car roof.  If required the roof rack could be mounted on the top of the trailer, used on the road and then easily removed for car top use.

hooks would be used to secure a canvas type top, or a locking plywood top with hinges and lock could be added.


When in Road mode the hitch unit was fully extended, the trailer board was in place and the suspension units were in the normalposition.

When rooftop mode was needed the trailer would be unloaded, the lights, ends and sides removed and the hitch unit fully retracted.

The suspension units, complete with wheels and mudguards, would  then be removed if required to reduce the weight or give more clearance for the car roof.

The trailer base would then be lifted onto the car roof rack and secured, the sides and top could then be replaced. The suspension units could be replace  depending on the clearance available. The light board could be replaced or stored in the trailer.

Note: drawings to follow as I have no photos in existence, I am also learning Sketchup, so the drawings may well use a combination of Sketchup and Inkscape drawings.

A Bike Rack

I needed to make a support plate for my youngest son. This was to hold supports for four bikes that were to be held vertically against a plasterboard wall.

The support plate was a piece of oak that I had spare, 115mm x 20mm, that was to be cut to length on site. This had a 60 degree french cleat cut along the top and. was then sanded and waxed.

While I was making this I looked at bike supports that were available. The best ones seemed to use a ‘U’ shaped pivoting bracket with a backing plate.

I decided to make four of these ‘just in case’, so I sorted out some 5mm diameter rod and some 30mm square oak to hold them.

Using a piece of 25mm square tube as a jig the rods were bent into the ‘U’ shape at one end for the bike wheel and the other end formed into a smaller square ‘U’ shape using an old circular wood blank mounted on my portable work bench to form the pivot.



The pivoting brackets were cut to length and taped into two pairs. The centre of the joined faces was drilled through 7mm and then counterbored 30mm x 10mm deep to form the pivot and clearance for the retaining end. Both ends of the central holes were slightly countersunk.
The pairs of brackets were split and the central holes deepened slightly with a file to fully accommodate the steel rods.

The front faces were marked for securing screws, drilled 5mm and countersunk.


The pivoting brackets were screwed to a test support with the rods in place to check for correct movement.

The pivoting brackets were fully sanded and waxed.

The rods were cut to the finished sizes, filed and had clear plastic pipe added as protection.


On site the support plate was cut to length, sanded and waxed.

Three screwholes were marked and drilled into the support plate, the support plate was located on the wall and the holes transferred through.

The plasterboard supports were installed into the wall, the support plate was then secured to the wall with the french cleat uppermost.


A french cleat is a tapered groove along the top of a piece of wood mounted on a wall. The groove can have matching pieces of wood placed into it to mount shelves,hangers etc., that need to be removable.

The bracket positions were marked, the brackets positioned, along with the steel rods, and screwed into place.

The bikes were installed onto the support hooks.


Rack clamps using Unistrut 41 / 41

Uni strut used is 41mm square x 2.5mm wall ‘U’ section galvanised steel fabrication with 25 x 14 slots 50mm apart along the strut length and is in 3 metre lengths as standard. The lengths can be cut to any required finished size.

The clamp ends are made of steel tubes 45mm x 45mm x 1.5mm or 2.0mm wall thickness.

The steel tubes are sized to move along the Unistrut without excessive movement, but depending on the actual sizes obtained, can have plastic or hardwood shims fitted to stop any excessive movement.

The fixed end clamps through one of the Unistrut slots with an M12 screw into a clamp block. The clamp block locks onto the underside of the Unistrut. The vertical part of this end has a large flat piece of steel attached as a clamping face. This clamping face has a large diameter adjusting screw in the centre, for fine adjustment.

The moving clamp comprises two pieces of steel tube welded at right angles. The vertical piece has a spring loaded pivoting lever system to raise or lower a pin that engages into one of the Unistrut slots to lock the clamp in position. This pivots on the side of the vertical tube away from the load.
The other side of the vertical tube is the clamping face, this clamping face has a plastic or hardwood pad screwed on to prevent damage.

The Waste Oil Stove

A few years ago I read an article by an American guy about building a stove to use old waste engine oil.

At the time I was saving old oil to use with a chainsaw that I used to cut firewood and had rather a lot so I decided to build one of my own to use up some of this oil.

After re-reading the article I set about determining the requirements for the stove and acquiring bits.


I decided to make the body of the stove from an old propane tank. This would need a tank to hold the oil, a chimney and a blower fan to make starting easier and combustion more complete, although this is by no means essential.

The Build

The oil tank was connected by a pipe and valve into the top of the stove. The oil dripped out of the pipe and down onto a tray arrangement mounted at the bottom of the propane tank.

The tray arrangement had a small grid on top of a saucer shaped dish.

I cut an access door into the side of the propane tank.

The chimney was mounted near the top of the propane tan, using an elbow. This chimney was about 80mm diameter because that was the tube I had.

On the top of the propane tank I mounted a short duct to hold the fan. The fan was a single speed so I added a moveable restrictor to throttle airflow if needed.


I placed a small piece of combustible material onto the grid and added a small amount of spirit. I lit this and left it to burn for a few minutes.

When the grid and tray was warm enough to ignite the oil ( a matter of trial and error) I turned on the oil valve slightly ( fast drip). The oil ignited and burned. I switched on the fan with the restriction in place to give a bigger flame.

Once the flame was well established I removed the restrictor and re- adjusted the amount of oil dripping into the stove.

Oil usage was about half a ( UK) gallon per hour when fully firing, but no attempt at fine regulation was made.


This  was only ever a test stove but was a huge success and produced loads of heat.

The outside glowed nearly white after about an hour, indicating that either the heat needed to be less or the propane tank needed internal insulation. The above two photos show just after lighting and again after half an hour.

The stove was outside a 20 foot square garage, but the heat could be felt near the back when fully firing.

Future Mods

I would fit a smaller fan and add electronic speed control instead of the restriction.

The oil being dirty, tended to clog the valve so I would ad a filter, or pre- filter the oil.

The oil tank would be better with an oil level indicator.

The chimney was fine for testing but was only short. A longer chimney would probably need to be about 100mm diameter.

The access door was crude and had gaps, this could be a better fit.

The grid that the oil dripped onto could be smaller diameter bars, I used about 6mm.

De Kart…or I thought, therefore I did

Long, long, time ago I made a kart for my eldest son.

The Idea

It all started because of his love for Lego, he was given a set of plans for different items, among which was a go- kart. He built this and played with it for sometime until other things came along.

Thoughts about bits

The idea stayed in the back of my mind until a guy I worked with said he had a 100cc motorbike engine spare and did I want it.
Of course I said yes, even though at the time I had no clear plans for it.
When he found the engine in the garage my son said “Dad…”
Bowing to the inevitable I said “OK you can have it”

One of his friends at the time had a father with a proper kart, so one day my son came home with a set of old kart wheels and tyres and so planning started that day.
Luckily I worked in engineering so bits and facilities were easy to obtain.
One of the prime requirements were that this kart had to have as near zero cost as possible so thinking cap on I gathered needed bits and made sketches.

Working out the design

To determine the overall sizes required he sat on the garage floor in an old plastic canteen seat with the engine located in roughly the right relative position. This seat was subsequently padded and used.

I marked out the positions of his feet (allowing for a bit of growth) on the floor and then the positions of the wheels. The chassis was marked around those items.

At no time had I found out any information about karts, it was intended to be a plaything and not to be raced, this was also pre-internet days as well.

After measuring the steering wheel position using an old wheel I still had from my Terrapin hill climber days, and also the gear-lever position, I converted these into proper dimensions.

The Build

The rear axle was a 25mm steel shaft with flanges for the wheels, Plummer block bearings for support and a sprocket for the drive.
The drive was a simple bike chain and the tension was adjusted by sliding the axle bearings rearwards.

The steering column was a 20mm steel shaft in bronze bearings with a short link at the bottom to move the front wheels.
The front wheels were mounted on simple flanges with pivots on the hubs and chassis to allow steering movement and a link system to connect them to the steering

The braking was a disc on the rear axle operated by a hydraulic cylinder on the chassis.
The clutch was operated by a similar cylinder system.

The gear-lever was mounted in the pre-determined position and connected to the gearbox by a simple link bar.

The chassis was fabricated from some 30mm tube I had spare and bent using a borrowed tube bender. We drew the chassis dimensions on the garage floor and bent the tube to suit.
This was welded up and the various mounting brackets added until all the components were in place.

A car silencer was mounted at the rear and connected to the bike exhaust.

When the kart was finished we decided to add a smaller extra sprocket to the rear axle to give a slower top speed when using the kart in more confined spaces.

Performance was surprisingly good for such a clapped out old engine (even with me on board, the extra pedal space really worked).

The Mods

Some time later I had some plastic slat chain from a trial under my desk and instead of binning it I brought some home to use with the kart (as seen on the rear wheels). The slat chain was 7 1/2″ wide with connecting links underneath and a smooth top. This was used for the transfer of bakery goods.
We measured the circumference of the rear tyres and made up two complete chain circles just slightly smaller than the tyres.
After locating the slat chain circles on the tyres we pumped them up again to hold the slat chains in place.

Driving with these on was pure fun! It was like driving on ice! It was possible to completely spin the kart in the width of my drive – great fun for all.

The kart served my son and friends well for some years, having to put up with being driven along farm tracks, and into a farm gate post on one occasion until inevitably other things took over and the kart was sold on to another youngster.